At Restaurant Cornelis in Amsterdam, Dutch cheese is not merely a garnish or a passing mention—it is a cornerstone of the kitchen’s philosophy. Chef de Cuisine Maarten van der Graaf works directly with artisan cheesemakers in North Holland and Utrecht to source wheels that tell the story of the polder landscape. This guide explains the local cheeses you will find on the menu, where they come from, how they are aged, and why they deserve a place on your plate. For an overview of the full dining experience, see our complete guide to dining at Cornelis.
1. Beemster Oud (Aged Gouda)
Origin: Beemster, North Holland. This cheese is produced by the Beemster Kaasboerderij, a cooperative of farms located in the UNESCO-listed Beemster Polder. The milk comes from cows grazing on clay soil, which gives the cheese a distinctive nutty sweetness.
Aging: Minimum 18 months, often up to 24 months. The wheels are turned and brushed regularly to develop a hard, golden rind and a crumbly, crystalline interior.
Flavor profile: Deep caramel, roasted hazelnuts, with a sharp, savory finish. The crystals are tyrosine clusters that form during prolonged aging.
How Cornelis uses it: Shaved over the signature starter of roasted pear and endive salad, and grated into the truffle fondue served with seasonal vegetables. It also appears on the cheese board as a centerpiece, paired with membrillo and walnuts.
2. Boerenkaas (Raw Milk Gouda)
Origin: Various small farms in Utrecht and Friesland. The term “Boerenkaas” is legally protected: it must be made from raw milk on the farm where the cows are kept. At Cornelis, the kitchen sources from Kaasboerderij de Twee Hoeven in Kamerik.
Aging: 6 to 12 months. The cheese is softer and more buttery than Beemster Oud, with a supple texture.
Flavor profile: Rich, grassy, with notes of fresh hay and a mild tang. The raw milk retains more complex microbial flora, giving a deeper umami.
How Cornelis uses it: Melted into the main course of braised beef cheek with mustard sauce, and sliced thin for the autumn harvest board alongside pickled onions and rye bread.
3. Old Amsterdam (Extra Aged Gouda)
Origin: Produced by Westland Kaas in Amsterdam, though the milk is sourced from Friesland. Despite the name, it is not from Amsterdam itself but is a well-known brand of extra-aged Gouda.
Aging: Minimum 18 months, with some wheels reaching 36 months. The cheese develops a dark brown, almost black rind and a very hard, flaky texture.
Flavor profile: Intensely savory, with notes of beef broth, roasted onion, and a lingering saltiness. The high salt content acts as a natural preservative.
How Cornelis uses it: Grated over the spring Dutch dishes like white asparagus with hollandaise, and crumbled into the salad of bitter greens with bacon vinaigrette.
4. Maaslander (Young Gouda with Cumin)
Origin: Produced by CONO Kaasmakers in Westbeemster, a cooperative founded in 1901. Maaslander is a brand name for a young Gouda-style cheese often flavored with cumin seeds.
Aging: 4 to 8 weeks. The cheese is semi-soft, pale yellow, and studded with whole cumin seeds.
Flavor profile: Mild, creamy, with the distinct aroma of cumin. It is a traditional Dutch “komijnekaas” (cumin cheese) often eaten at breakfast.
How Cornelis uses it: Served as a palate cleanser between courses, paired with apple syrup and dark rye bread. It also appears in the dessert menu as a component of the cheese-and-honey pairing with poached figs.
5. Leidse Kaas (Leiden Cheese with Cumin and Clove)
Origin: City of Leiden, South Holland. This cheese is historically known as “Leidse Sleutels” because of the key-shaped stamps on the rind. It is made from partly skimmed milk, giving it a lower fat content.
Aging: 6 to 12 months. The cheese is hard, with a pale interior and a reddish-brown rind from annatto coloring.
Flavor profile: Spicy from cumin and clove, with a dry, crumbly texture. The cheese is less creamy than Gouda, with a sharper finish.
How Cornelis uses it: Grated over the traditional Dutch recipes such as erwtensoep (pea soup) and stamppot, providing a salty, aromatic kick.
6. Friese Nagelkaas (Frisian Clove Cheese)
Origin: Friesland, specifically from the region around Leeuwarden. This cheese is made from cow’s milk and flavored with whole cloves and sometimes cumin or mace.
Aging: 4 to 10 months. The cheese is semi-hard, with a golden rind and a speckled interior from the cloves.
Flavor profile: Pungent, aromatic, with a warming clove note that lingers. The cheese has a firm, slightly greasy texture.
How Cornelis uses it: Served as part of the autumn harvest menu, paired with roasted apples and a drizzle of honey. It is also used in the kitchen’s cheese soufflé, where the clove flavor complements the eggy custard.
7. Graskaas (First-Grass Cheese)
Origin: Seasonal cheese produced only in late May and June, when cows are first turned out to pasture after winter. The milk is rich in beta-carotene from fresh grass, giving the cheese a deep yellow color.
Aging: 4 to 8 weeks. It is a young, soft cheese with a high moisture content.
Flavor profile: Buttery, sweet, with notes of fresh grass and wildflowers. It is often described as “the taste of spring.”
How Cornelis uses it: Featured exclusively on the spring menu, served fresh with radishes, chives, and a sprinkle of sea salt. It is also melted over new potatoes and asparagus.
Cheese Board and Pairings at Cornelis
Cornelis offers a curated cheese board with three to five selections, priced at €18 for three cheeses and €25 for five. The board includes house-made chutneys (fig and walnut, onion marmalade), fresh bread from local bakery Hartog’s, and seasonal fruits. For wine pairings, the sommelier recommends a white wine such as a Viognier for aged Gouda, or a red wine like a Pinot Noir for the clove cheese. The cheese board is available as a starter or dessert.
Sourcing and Sustainability
All cheeses at Cornelis are sourced from farms within 100 km of Amsterdam. The restaurant prioritizes producers who use pasture-raised cows and avoid artificial additives. Beemster Kaasboerderij, for example, is a B Corp certified cooperative. The kitchen also works with Kaasboerderij de Twee Hoeven, which uses only milk from its own herd of Holstein cows. This commitment to local sourcing supports the Dutch dairy tradition and reduces food miles.
How to Enjoy Dutch Cheese at Home
If you want to recreate the Cornelis cheese experience, visit the Kaasbar in Amsterdam or the Albert Cuypmarkt for fresh Boerenkaas. For aged Gouda, the Beemster brand is widely available at supermarkets like Albert Heijn (€12–€18 per kg). Pair with a Dutch jenever or a glass of dessert wine such as a late-harvest Riesling. For a simple appetizer, slice young Gouda thinly and serve with apple syrup and mustard—a classic Dutch combination.
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