In the Netherlands, herring is more than a fish—it's a cultural institution. The Hollandse Nieuwe (Dutch New Herring) season, which begins in June with the first catch of the year, is celebrated with festivals, street stalls, and restaurant menus across the country. At Restaurant Cornelis, this classic appetizer is showcased in a refined setting, honoring centuries-old traditions while adding a contemporary touch. This article explores the history, preparation, and modern variations of this beloved starter.

Herring has been a staple of Dutch cuisine since the Middle Ages, when the invention of kaken (gibbing)—a method of removing the gills and part of the esophagus while leaving the pancreas intact—allowed the fish to be preserved in salt without gutting. This technique, perfected by Willem Beukelszoon in the 14th century, transformed herring into a valuable trade commodity and laid the foundation for the Dutch Golden Age. Today, the tradition lives on, and a properly prepared herring appetizer remains a must-try for visitors and locals alike.

The Tradition of Hollandse Nieuwe

Hollandse Nieuwe refers to the first herring of the season, caught between May and July. These young fish have a higher fat content (16-20%) than later catches, giving them a buttery texture and delicate flavor. The fish are salted on board the fishing vessels within hours of being caught, then stored at controlled temperatures for at least 24 hours to allow the enzymes to develop the characteristic taste.

By Dutch law, herring labeled as Hollandse Nieuwe must be caught in the North Sea or the English Channel, landed in a Dutch port, and processed according to traditional methods. In 2024, the first barrel of Hollandse Nieuwe was auctioned for €96,000 at the annual Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day) festival in Scheveningen, highlighting the cultural significance of this delicacy.

At Restaurant Cornelis, the herring appetizer is sourced from a trusted supplier in Volendam, a fishing village known for its high-quality herring. The fish are served as a starter, often accompanied by finely chopped raw onions and pickles, or incorporated into more elaborate compositions.

How to Eat Herring Like a Local

There are three classic ways to eat Dutch herring:

  • Haring in het vuistje – Hold the herring by the tail, tilt your head back, and lower the fish into your mouth. This is the most traditional street-food method.
  • On a bread roll – Place the herring on a soft white bun (broodje) with onions and pickles. This is a popular lunch option.
  • As a fillet – Served on a plate with a fork, often with boiled egg, pickles, and onions. This is the restaurant style.

At Restaurant Cornelis, the herring appetizer is presented as a fillet, artfully arranged on a plate with house-made pickled vegetables and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. The dish is priced at €14.50 as part of the signature starters menu. Guests are encouraged to eat it with a fork, but the kitchen is happy to provide a napkin for those who prefer the hand-held method.

Nutritional Profile and Health Benefits

Herring is one of the most nutrient-dense fish available. A 100-gram serving of Hollandse Nieuwe contains:

  • Calories: 158 kcal
  • Protein: 18 g
  • Fat: 9 g (of which 2.3 g omega-3 fatty acids)
  • Vitamin D: 22% of the Daily Value
  • Selenium: 41% of the Daily Value
  • Vitamin B12: 480% of the Daily Value

The high omega-3 content supports cardiovascular health, while vitamin B12 is essential for nerve function. Because the herring is salt-cured, sodium content is elevated (around 870 mg per serving), so those on low-sodium diets should consume in moderation.

Seasonal Availability and Sustainability

Hollandse Nieuwe is available from June through early September. Outside this period, restaurants serve Zoute Haring (salted herring) or Maatjesharing, which are older herring preserved in a similar manner but with a firmer texture and stronger salt flavor.

Sustainability is a key concern at Restaurant Cornelis. The kitchen sources herring certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), ensuring the fish are caught from healthy stocks with minimal environmental impact. The North Sea herring fishery has been MSC-certified since 2006, and the Dutch government enforces strict quotas to prevent overfishing.

For those visiting in spring, the restaurant also features a spring menu that includes lightly cured herring with seasonal asparagus and a citrus vinaigrette.

Pairing Herring with Wine

The rich, oily nature of herring calls for wines with high acidity to cut through the fat. At Restaurant Cornelis, the sommelier recommends the following pairings:

  • Riesling Trocken – A dry German Riesling from the Mosel region (e.g., Dr. Loosen) with bright acidity and subtle fruit notes.
  • Muscadet Sèvre et Maine – A Loire Valley white made from Melon de Bourgogne, known for its crisp, saline character that complements the brininess of the herring.
  • Grüner Veltliner – An Austrian white with peppery notes and high acidity, a versatile match for pickled accompaniments.

For guests who prefer red wine, the red wine pairings page suggests a light-bodied Pinot Noir from the Netherlands or a chilled Beaujolais, though white is generally preferred. A comprehensive white wine pairing guide is available on the restaurant's website.

Modern Twists on the Classic Appetizer

While traditional herring is beloved, Restaurant Cornelis also offers innovative variations:

  • Herring tartare – Finely diced herring mixed with capers, shallots, and a dash of vodka, served on crispy rye croutons.
  • Herring ceviche – Fresh herring cured in lime juice with chili, cilantro, and avocado. This dish is available on the autumn harvest menu when local produce is at its peak.
  • Herring with beetroot and horseradish – A colorful plate featuring pickled herring, roasted beetroot, and a creamy horseradish sauce.

Each variation respects the integrity of the fish while introducing new flavors and textures. The kitchen team, led by chef Jan de Vries, experiments with fermentation and pickling techniques to enhance the herring's natural qualities.

Where to Enjoy Herring in Amsterdam

Beyond Restaurant Cornelis, Amsterdam offers numerous spots to sample herring. Street stalls like Stubbe's Haring at the Albert Cuypmarkt and Frens Haringhandel near the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal serve Hollandse Nieuwe from May to September. For a seated experience, traditional brown cafés such as De Drie Fleschjes or Hoppe offer herring platters with genever (Dutch gin).

Restaurant Cornelis, located along the Prinsengracht canal, provides a refined setting with views of the historic waterways. The canal dining spots article highlights other venues, but Cornelis stands out for its commitment to quality and service. Reservations are recommended, especially during the herring season; see reservation tips for guidance.

Conclusion

The herring appetizer at Restaurant Cornelis is a testament to Dutch culinary heritage—simple yet refined, traditional yet innovative. Whether you prefer the classic presentation or a modern interpretation, this starter offers a taste of the Netherlands that is both authentic and memorable. Pair it with a crisp white wine, enjoy the canal views, and savor a dish that has delighted locals and visitors for centuries.

Related articles

  • The Complete Guide to Dining at Restaurant Cornelis in Amsterdam
  • Signature Starters
  • Traditional Dutch Recipes
  • White Wine Pairings
  • Spring Dutch Dishes